Reflections on Mentoring in Nepal 2025

 

After over 30 years working for the NHS—having led our GP practices through the turmoil of COVID, which affected not only our work but also our personal lives—Miranda and I decided we needed a career break. We hoped it would give our severely depleted batteries a chance to recharge.

 

As part of this break, we were looking for a reset—something that would help us see life and work from a new perspective. That’s when we discovered an opportunity to volunteer in Nepal through PHASE Worldwide, a charity that enables experienced GPs to travel to remote regions and mentor community health workers in their local clinics.GP Mentoring in Nepal - PHASE Worldwide

 

At first, it felt like an impossible task for me. Since my bout of COVID in 2021, I’ve had sleep apnoea requiring CPAP treatment every night.

 

Preparing for the Trip

 

This meant embarking on a journey of discovery. Could I manage in a remote village with no access to mains electricity at night? Miranda went ahead to Nepal in December 2023, and I was keen to learn from her what challenges I might face. Meanwhile, I began trying to wean myself off total reliance on my CPAP machine. My hospital clinic was extremely supportive, reassuring me (and PHASE’s insurers) that, given the mildness of my condition, I would likely cope well.

 

Kathmandu to the Hills

 

Fast forward to 6th May 2025. We were in Kathmandu, issued our emergency phone and a letter in Nepali explaining our purpose—just in case we were questioned by local authorities. We boarded a flight to Nepalgunj and stayed in a Phase-recommended hotel—air-conditioned, en-suite bathroom, surprisingly comfortable.

 

Dinner was the classic Nepali Dal Bhat—a lentil soup served with rice, often accompanied by pickle and greens. An early night followed, ready for the next leg of our journey.

 

 

 

 

 

Into the Remote Hills

 

We caught an early flight to the hilltop airstrip at Rara. Flights must leave early as mountain winds pick up in the afternoon. After landing, we took a local bus along a "dancing road,”  which had a narrow ridge with steep drops and stunning views. The wild ride was made bearable by loud local music distracting us from the bouncing and swaying.

Then came the jeep ride. Our guide wisely suggested we eat lunch at 10 a.m.—and we were glad we listened. As there were no public jeeps scheduled, we hired a private one for 4,000 rupees (£20). This felt like a good deal, although we later realised the seats were sold to others until it was full. Our guide, unfortunately, had to spend two hours clinging to a rope in the open-air pickup section behind the cab.

 After 6–8 hours of what felt like being shaken in a cocktail mixer, we arrived at our destination. Along the way, Miranda had left to begin her own phase of the trip, and I switched jeeps one last time.

 

Arrival in Narthapu

 

As night fell, I arrived at a small village called Narthapu. The welcoming PHASE team greeted me with a warm meal of Dal Bhat and showed me to my accommodation. No mains electricity—just solar power and batteries. To my relief, my CPAP machine worked fine.

 

The next day began with a two-hour downhill trek to Tumcha passing the local fishermen in the Karnali river. This was initially planned as a lunch stop. After lunch, we waited by the road for transport. Only two vehicles passed in five hours—both overflowing. As darkness approached, we decided to stay the night.

Settling in Tumcha

 

It soon became clear that if I stayed in Tumcha, I’d have 5–6 days of teaching rather than just 2 if I pushed on to the original destination, Nera. The Tumcha team welcomed me warmly, and we dove straight into a tutorial on joint pain—something they were eager to learn more about.

WI-FI

 

 

Clinic Life

 

Days were spent either seeing patients at the clinic or conducting community visits, often focusing on malnutrition. Clinical cases were familiar—coughs, colds, diarrhoea, vague aches and pains (often linked to depression), and occasional sprains.

 

But some cases were more severe:

• Two with confirmed dysentery
• One with hypoxic pneumonia
• A likely femur fracture
• One domestic assault requiring police involvement
• One case of severe malnutrition

 

The team remained composed and followed treatment protocols closely, showing great competence despite the logistical challenges. However, supply shortages were frustrating.

The local hospital was 8 hours away on a bus, and i was told it had one doctor. The next hospital was I understand a further 18 hours on the bus.

Community Work

 

We held baby clinics using portable scales, followed by education sessions. The mothers were delighted when I introduced myself in Nepali. We also visited the local police to discuss a domestic abuse case—though it’s likely the entire village was already aware of it.

 

The Team

 

The Tumcha team was outstanding—three PHASE staff (two Auxiliary Nurse Midwives and one health care assistant) working seamlessly with 2–3 government staff. Their respect for each other and the patients was evident. I had every confidence in their judgment and their knowledge of when to escalate care.

 

 

Washing Day and Food

 

Saturday is the official day off in Nepal. We took the chance to wash our clothes and ourselves—easily the most scenic shower of my life. In the afternoon, we visited the Karnali River, which flows over 600 miles to the Ganges. Perfect for a cautious swim.

 

I stayed with Hirdaya, Pramila and Sarita, - excellent cooks. While I expected Dal Bhat every day, meals varied: local chicken, goat soup (thanks to a visit from SWAN Nepal, who were building the local school). We even had dried fish and cake perfectly cooked in a pressure cooker Meals followed the local rhythm—breakfast/lunch at 9:30 a.m., a snack at 4 p.m., and a late evening meal.

Accommodation

Basic but functional. Fantastic Yoga studio! We stayed in mud-walled buildings with tarpaulin-covered roofs. The sounds of scampering above were likely chickens kept in the ceiling—not rats, I told myself. The squat toilet was expected, complete with two buckets and an old trough for balance (and, perhaps, for a phone if one was careless enough to bring it in). However any unpleasantness was more than adequately compensated for in the natural surroundings.

The Village

Visiting time was corn harvest, with the constant sound of manual threshing of corn! We also took the opportunity for a dip in the Karnali River 

Saying Goodbye

 

All too soon, it was time to leave. The team gave me a warm farewell with tikka and scarves. After a short wait at the village bus stop/store, I boarded the bus for the bumpy ride down. I confess, I had a tear in my eye.

It had been a privilege to spend time in this amazing community—one still living in ways unchanged for centuries. While they may be among the financially poorest people in the world, their lives are rich in other ways. As the modern world encroaches, I hope some aspects of their traditional life can be preserved. 

 GP Mentoring in Nepal - PHASE Worldwide

 

World Vision Visit

 

Miranda has supported children through World Vision for over 30 years. Since we were in Nepal, and her current sponsored child lived there, we took the opportunity to visit the family in the Sarlahi region. Sponsor a child | Child Sponsorship | World Vision UK

 

Though just 60 miles from Kathmandu, the road journey would have taken 7 hours. Fortunately, a short flight brought us there swiftly.

 

After a safety briefing (“beware snakes, mosquitoes, and kidnappings”), we met the family—a healthy, happy five-year-old boy thriving thanks to World Vision’s support. His 18-year-old brother, preparing to return to India to continue training in tailoring, looked on proudly.

 

We then visited:

• A woman running a small vegetable farm, supported by World Vision.
• A local clinic—well-organized, motivated staff, and even a version of the UK’s QOF for incentivising care.
• Several women in the antenatal clinic (all seemingly 20 years old plus the age of their eldest child-the minimum age to marry in Nepal is 20).
• A youth group of adolescents in the World Vision program—future pilots, doctors, health workers, and civil servants. One had successfully resisted child marriage. Their aspirations and confidence were truly inspiring.
• A water pump built for a family from the “untouchable caste.” During a recent drought, it was the only water source—a small but important blow to the archaic caste system.
• A woman thriving with a grocery store set up with World Vision’s help—already thinking about expanding.

 

Final Thoughts

 

We witnessed so many stories of hope and resilience. On arrival, looking at the agricultural challenges, I wondered what could be done. But World Vision’s targeted support has made opportunity a reality for many. However, close inspection this table illustrates the severe health challenges that remain!

 

This trip was not only a professional reset—it was a deeply personal one. We returned with renewed gratitude, new insights, and a profound respect for the people we met. The Nepali peoples remarkable resilience and adaptability is well illustrated in their power socket! They adapt to all options!

 

The districts of Nepal

A special thanks to all those who made the World Vision visit possible through their donation when we did the Hurley-Burley swim. There is a rumour about we might be doing the London marathon 2026!

See https://2026tcslondonmarathon.enthuse.com/pf/edward-taylor?utm_campaign=website&utm_medium=email&utm_source=enthuse